Nestled In the Atlas mountains in Morocco lies the Todra Gorge. A beautiful rock formation 2,5 hours from Ouarzazate.

Climbing in the Todra george is great for in the winter. The power of the sun makes 10 degrees celcius feel like 20 degrees.

approach

We flown to Marrakesh. From there we took a 8 hour bus ride to Ouarzazate from there we took the grand taxi for 9 euro cents to Tinghir.

climbing

the climbing in the Todra Gorge is great. The area is pretty well bolted in a few certain areas. There are multipitch and single pitch routes with varying grades.

The area in the winter depending on the year could be quite nice.

The only downside is that the area has gotten quite popular with touring companies where they make a short 10 minute stop in the gorge. Because of this there are also a lot of vendors which block certain routes with their cables or their booth.

But please be aware with climbing. There were rumours of locals cutting bolts in the last pitches of routes, so bring Alex honnold or trad gear. You can rent all kinds of climbing equipment at the local gear rental.

the homeless village

If you walk trough the gorge from the main village you will find a concrete staircase up the mountain. I won’t tell the exact route but if you hike for a while you will find a quite unique village of people living in underground shelters.

stay

We stayed in “A secret Garden” which is a nice guesthouse. There is good food and often there are a few other climbers that you will dine together. The food they cook is nice and they give you a few options in the morning for what you want in the evening.

Overall I would really recommend going climbing once in the Todra gorge. The climbing is overall nice and day hiking trough the area is great.